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author | Eric S. Raymond <esr@thyrsus.com> | 2004-09-12 23:21:18 +0000 |
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committer | Eric S. Raymond <esr@thyrsus.com> | 2004-09-12 23:21:18 +0000 |
commit | 7287526a8d79aa4225051c792be9624708cef343 (patch) | |
tree | ed6851674df02913a82bf1ed8c617fb38765a991 /www/bu_303b.html | |
parent | d36279eb47abb5a17e3f6cccbd069351927fef00 (diff) | |
download | gpsd-7287526a8d79aa4225051c792be9624708cef343.tar.gz |
Note on repairing the BU-303.
Diffstat (limited to 'www/bu_303b.html')
-rw-r--r-- | www/bu_303b.html | 78 |
1 files changed, 78 insertions, 0 deletions
diff --git a/www/bu_303b.html b/www/bu_303b.html index 52f62945..accf462d 100644 --- a/www/bu_303b.html +++ b/www/bu_303b.html @@ -14,6 +14,9 @@ <p>(Found on a Korean electronics dealer's website, edited to fix the English and remove promotional crap.)</p> +<p>(Below this, a note on what to do if your BU-303 starts making a +rattling noise and your USB transciever flakes out.)</p> + <div align="center"><img src="BU303-2.gif" width="500" height="300"></div> <table cellspacing="0" cellpadding="2" align="center" border="0"> @@ -250,4 +253,79 @@ Jerk 20 meters / second, max. Acceleration 4 G, max. </pre> +<p>And now ESR tells a hardware-repair war story:</p> + +<p>The BU-303 has a design flaw. It has an internal lithium battery, +probably used to drive static RAM holding fix information when the +unit is unplugged or powered down. The only thing holding the battery +om the PCB is the solder on its leads.</p> + +<p>Mechanical vibration and shock (from events like allowing the GPS +to fall on the floor) can stress and eventually break the solder bond. +If you start hearing a rattling noise from inside the BU-303 case, +this has probably happened. The least-bad effect this can have is +that the unit will start taking longer to acquire a first fix, because +every time you plug it in will effectively be a cold start.</p> + +<p>After the battery has been loose for a while, the USB transciever +in the device may go catatonic. You will know this has happened if +the indicator LED still lights when the BU-303 is plugged in but the +USB system on your laptop no longer sees the device. Check this by +running lsusb(1); you should see a line that looks like this:</p> + +<pre> +Bus XXX: Device YYY: ID 067b:2302 Prolific Technology Inc. PL2303 Serial Port +</pre> + +<p>If you don't see this line, do not despair — it is actually +possible to repair the unit. Here is how:</p> + +<ol> +<li>Collect the right tools. You will need one (1) Philips-blade +jewelers' screwdriver, one (1) tube of epoxy superglue, and one (1) +clean well-lighted suface on which tiny parts won't disappear. If +your fingers are clumsy, get a pair of tweezers or a really small pair +of needlenose pliers.</p> + +<li>There's a rubber nonskid pad on the bottom of the BU-303. Peel +back the edge closest to where the USB cable emerges from the case (it +isn't necessary to remove the whole thing). You'll see two Philips +screws. Remove and save them. </li> + +<li>Carefully pry the case apart along the seam near the cable hole. +Inside, you'll see a single small PCB (printed-circuit board). +Watch for two small parts that may be loose inside the case. One is +the battery. The other is a transparent plastic light-diffuser plug +that sits in the hole over the LED. You want to not lose either of +these! There is nothing really holding the diffuser in the LED hole +but the presence of the PCB. I dropped mine and it was only rescued +from oblivion by my sharp-eyed wife.</li> + +<li>Look for a place near the edge of the PCB that has a white circle +stenciled on it. That is where the loose battery making the rattling +noise should be secured. You'll notice that there are two parallel pads on +the PCB, like trenches a fraction of a millimeter deep, pointing +parallel to the board-edge towards the middle of one side, that match +two metal fingers on the loose battery.</li> + +<li>Place the battery within the white circle so that its figers sit on +the pads. There will be only one way it fits. Once you know how to +put it in that position with your fingers or a pair of tweezers, get +out a tube of epoxy superglue. Put some on the metal rectangle on the +bottom face of the battery and put the battery into position. Hold it +there long enough for the glue to set.</li> + +<li>Unplug the USB cable from the connector on the PCB and plug it +back in. This step is voodoo; it's what actually seemed to rouse the +USB transciever from catatonia, though I don't know how or why.</li> + +<li>Reassemble the case around the PCB. You'll know the right way for +the PCB in fit in it because it puts the LED on the PCB edge right +underneath its hole. Be careful not to drop the transparent plastic +diffuser! If you still have the glue handy, glue it in too, just in +case.</li> +</ol> + +<p>If you are lucky, your BU-303 now works again.</p> + </body></html> |