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authorEric S. Raymond <esr@thyrsus.com>2004-09-12 23:21:18 +0000
committerEric S. Raymond <esr@thyrsus.com>2004-09-12 23:21:18 +0000
commit7287526a8d79aa4225051c792be9624708cef343 (patch)
treeed6851674df02913a82bf1ed8c617fb38765a991 /www/bu_303b.html
parentd36279eb47abb5a17e3f6cccbd069351927fef00 (diff)
downloadgpsd-7287526a8d79aa4225051c792be9624708cef343.tar.gz
Note on repairing the BU-303.
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<p>(Found on a Korean electronics dealer's website, edited to fix the
English and remove promotional crap.)</p>
+<p>(Below this, a note on what to do if your BU-303 starts making a
+rattling noise and your USB transciever flakes out.)</p>
+
<div align="center"><img src="BU303-2.gif" width="500" height="300"></div>
<table cellspacing="0" cellpadding="2" align="center" border="0">
@@ -250,4 +253,79 @@ Jerk 20 meters / second, max.
Acceleration 4 G, max.
</pre>
+<p>And now ESR tells a hardware-repair war story:</p>
+
+<p>The BU-303 has a design flaw. It has an internal lithium battery,
+probably used to drive static RAM holding fix information when the
+unit is unplugged or powered down. The only thing holding the battery
+om the PCB is the solder on its leads.</p>
+
+<p>Mechanical vibration and shock (from events like allowing the GPS
+to fall on the floor) can stress and eventually break the solder bond.
+If you start hearing a rattling noise from inside the BU-303 case,
+this has probably happened. The least-bad effect this can have is
+that the unit will start taking longer to acquire a first fix, because
+every time you plug it in will effectively be a cold start.</p>
+
+<p>After the battery has been loose for a while, the USB transciever
+in the device may go catatonic. You will know this has happened if
+the indicator LED still lights when the BU-303 is plugged in but the
+USB system on your laptop no longer sees the device. Check this by
+running lsusb(1); you should see a line that looks like this:</p>
+
+<pre>
+Bus XXX: Device YYY: ID 067b:2302 Prolific Technology Inc. PL2303 Serial Port
+</pre>
+
+<p>If you don't see this line, do not despair &mdash; it is actually
+possible to repair the unit. Here is how:</p>
+
+<ol>
+<li>Collect the right tools. You will need one (1) Philips-blade
+jewelers' screwdriver, one (1) tube of epoxy superglue, and one (1)
+clean well-lighted suface on which tiny parts won't disappear. If
+your fingers are clumsy, get a pair of tweezers or a really small pair
+of needlenose pliers.</p>
+
+<li>There's a rubber nonskid pad on the bottom of the BU-303. Peel
+back the edge closest to where the USB cable emerges from the case (it
+isn't necessary to remove the whole thing). You'll see two Philips
+screws. Remove and save them. </li>
+
+<li>Carefully pry the case apart along the seam near the cable hole.
+Inside, you'll see a single small PCB (printed-circuit board).
+Watch for two small parts that may be loose inside the case. One is
+the battery. The other is a transparent plastic light-diffuser plug
+that sits in the hole over the LED. You want to not lose either of
+these! There is nothing really holding the diffuser in the LED hole
+but the presence of the PCB. I dropped mine and it was only rescued
+from oblivion by my sharp-eyed wife.</li>
+
+<li>Look for a place near the edge of the PCB that has a white circle
+stenciled on it. That is where the loose battery making the rattling
+noise should be secured. You'll notice that there are two parallel pads on
+the PCB, like trenches a fraction of a millimeter deep, pointing
+parallel to the board-edge towards the middle of one side, that match
+two metal fingers on the loose battery.</li>
+
+<li>Place the battery within the white circle so that its figers sit on
+the pads. There will be only one way it fits. Once you know how to
+put it in that position with your fingers or a pair of tweezers, get
+out a tube of epoxy superglue. Put some on the metal rectangle on the
+bottom face of the battery and put the battery into position. Hold it
+there long enough for the glue to set.</li>
+
+<li>Unplug the USB cable from the connector on the PCB and plug it
+back in. This step is voodoo; it's what actually seemed to rouse the
+USB transciever from catatonia, though I don't know how or why.</li>
+
+<li>Reassemble the case around the PCB. You'll know the right way for
+the PCB in fit in it because it puts the LED on the PCB edge right
+underneath its hole. Be careful not to drop the transparent plastic
+diffuser! If you still have the glue handy, glue it in too, just in
+case.</li>
+</ol>
+
+<p>If you are lucky, your BU-303 now works again.</p>
+
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